Journey to the Sinking Lands
A witness to the world's first evacuation of an entire people due to climate changeArchive for Carteret Islands
Goodbye…
This will, I think, be my last post. I left the Carterets over a year ago now and have been privileged to have that journey, and those people, dominate my life since. I’ve lost track of the number of places I have been to talk about what is happening, as well as the number of articles written and interviews I’ve done. On Wednesday, I gave my last in the series of regional lectures organised by the Royal Geographical Society (and IBG), at the Brewhouse Theatre in Taunton, Somerset, and I couldn’t have wished for a nicer audience with which to finish. I had to draw the questions at the end to a close, but could easily have gone on talking for hours. The night before, in London, we didn’t win the One World Media Award for radio documentary of the year (though the doco that did is well worth a listen), but I genuinely don’t mind. The whole thing has been a pleasure from start to finish. I still keep in touch every now and then with Ruth from the islands, who calls when she is on the Bougainville mainland and lets me know what is happening, but it feels like this chapter of my life is drawing to a close. I have a standing invitiation to go back to the islands, Ruth says, though I don’t know if I should take it. I think it is more important that other people – academics, scientists, aid workers, governments – visit the islands now, and try to learn some of the lessons from this, first, evacuation of a people before we face many more like it in the years to come. So, to all of you who have shared the journey, thanks. It’s been a pleasure.
Dan
Sounds of the islands
I’ve gone through the recordings I made while living on the Carterets islands and picked out a few to listen to here. They say the pictures are better on radio, and I agree:
In church, on Sunday morning
Walking through the food gardens with John Sailik and Ruth Marcella
Talking to Selina Bill
A procession to celebrate the Virgin Mary
An argument
I’m pulling together a talk I’m due to give to the Royal Geographical Society about the Carterets journey. I’m speaking twice, firstly to the Society’s City branch on October 6 and secondly at the RGS itself, on December 14.
It’s proven to be a good opportunity to finally tie together some of the loose ideas I’ve been thinking about since before I left for the islands in April. At the time, I remember thinking there was something there, but couldn’t quite form it as a finished idea in my mind.
My basic thinking goes link this (I hope to come back with more scientific data to back all this up):
This year is the 200th anniversary of Charles Darwin’s birth. He was born in Shrewsbury, where I live. I even went to the birthday party held for him in town, where lots of people got dressed up in old-fashioned clothes and ate cake.
It is also the 300th anniversary of the first use of coke (a form of coal) to smelt iron. The site of this discovery, now called Ironbridge is described as the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution. I grew up in Ironbridge.
Ironbridge and Shrewsbury are just 12 miles apart. I cycle or drive that road constantly. Before I left for the Carterets, I couldn’t shake the feeling there was something that linked Darwin, Ironbridge and the islands, but I couldn’t work out what it was.
Now, I think it is this:
Journey of a Lifetime
East, Dan, east. The Carteret Islands are in the east of Papua New Guinea. Not, as you said three times in the course of the programme, the west. Idiot boy.
That apart, I really enjoyed listening to the programme (which can be downloaded here), maybe more than anyone else who did. I could remember every moment; the heat, the music, the taste of the fish eyes…
Simon Elmes at the BBC did a great job stitching it all together and I’m really proud to have worked with him on it. The programme has also been made the Radio 4 ‘podcast of the week’. My Aunty Sue says they should give me a badge.
Latest news: This just in from the Carteret Islands…
On air – tomorrow
I had no idea when I started this journey just how long it would take, nor how much of my life it would fill, nor how much I would get from it.
For those who want to hear me take some of those steps, the broadcast of the radio programme about the journey to ad life on the islands will be broadcast tomorrow, Friday September 4, at 11am on Radio 4. I haven’t heard it yet, so will be one of those listening – along with my mum.
But there’s more…
Talcum? powder
Another letter, and a second shell money, arrives from Buka, with this instruction on the first page:
“Please don’t read the letter or not first do put this powder inside onto your face.
then you can read.
Just a sign of happiness to you.”
OK.
A distinct and unusual honour
I’ve just got back from the BBC studios in Birmingham, where I was recording a last few bits of speech for Simon to edit in to the recordings in PNG to hold the programme together. I like working with Simon, he has the happy habit of telling you that everything you do is wonderful, so you end up walking home feeling ten foot tall (he’s also very good at his job as these programmes, evidence of which can be heard here).
But in among the mutual backslapping he said something that really stuck in my mind – he was dead pleased with the recordings I made in PNG, so pleased in fact that he plans on sending them all to the BBC Sound Effects library where they will be preserved – and available to access – for the future. It’s a great testament to the moment in time that I was fortunate enough to record, and to the people I met. I feel very pleased.
Reader, I opened it…
… the shell money is beautiful.
The parcel also contained a letter:
Dear Dan,
A tsi soasa (good day) thanks alot for the address which will help me much to send your things quickly.
How are you friend, is your memories still of the Carterets Island?
Your shell money was given by the group 4 Comm this groups starts at the schools and finishes at the boys house and community government office.
Dan, its a gift and a word of appreciation to you, with you, gladness and happiness, for you being one of us eg: eating our special food like coconuts, yevo (the one that looks like a snake but is not a snake) etc.
Thankyou for respecting our Culture and Customs. Your staying at Carterets Island is appreciated so much. With this shell money it shows how much we treasure you in our hearts and in our memories.
Hello Mr Postman
Oh my,
the shell money has arrived. A DHL van arrived with it in the middle of arainstorm this morning. I stood out on the road in my raincoat to meet the driver, feeling about a million miles away from the tropical island on which the shell money was made (technically, about 16,000 miles away).
What do I do? The shell money has been sent by the islanders, so i can pay bride-price for Elle when we get married next month. I’m supposed to hang it around her neck during the ceremony. But should I open it now? Should I show Elle? Should I save it as a surprise? So exiting.
Letter from Papua New Guinea
I’ve just received this letter from a friend, Ruth Marcella, on the islands:
22/June/2009
Dan,
a soasa, I hope you are doing well, how are you, Is your good memories still of the Carterets Islands?
I want to talk to you about the shell money. Dan, it is a special gift to you by the group 4 Community. You know you have respected so much our livinng, Culture and Customs. The way we eat and everything, and you have also done what we were not expecting you to do because we know it’s impossible for white man to do, but you did it excellent.
Journey to the Sinking Lands 